Monday, August 31, 2009
The Nozzle Dance
Golfers that venture out on the course at the crack of dawn sometimes comment on wet conditions, soft spots, and mud on their balls. Obviously the superintendent has been over watering the course. If he/she would just turn down the water or shut off a couple of heads, the wet spots would disappear and the course would be firm, green, and uniform. I truly wish it was that simple.
I try to water as little as I can, just enough to keep the grass growing. I don't care if it is green, as long as the turf is playable and not wet, I'm happy. Well, I'm not happy, but I won't have to drink myself to sleep. I used to think it was as simple as turning down the water and letting things dry out. As the irrigation is tightened up, you'll begin to notice some areas dry much faster than others. Some, against everything that makes sense in this world, remain soft and on the damp side. Other spots absolutely roast and leave me wishing that I watered the night before because wet grass might be better than no grass.
So then you move on to fine tuning the system by adjusting the percentage of water each head (sprinkler) puts out on a nightly basis. Each head irrigates a slightly different microcosm with varying soils, slopes, grass species, wind, sun, and traffic. It takes a long while to dial things in and the adjustments always need to be made.
Then, if you still have a problem, perhaps the soil needs some work. Well, the soil here does need some work and we've been going at it with wetting agents, aerifiers, and subsurface drainage. These items helped, but the uniformity is still not what it should be.
So on to the Nozzle Dance. Our sprinkler heads are fairly advanced and they better be with a price tag of nearly $150. There are 3 nozzles in most of the heads: one large main, and two smaller back up nozzles. Some of the fairways have shown a uniformity issue, but I've been reluctant to start switching nozzles. I've gone down this road before and wound up returning the original nozzles after making a mess with every other arrangement. Hopefully, this time around will be different.
We recently installed some new secondary nozzles that seem to target the dry rings around our heads and to minimize the water that's delivered near the source. In the test plot we've had the wet areas around each head firm up without stressing out. The dry portions have greened up, but are still very firm. This is exactly what we are looking for, so the results have been positive.
Below are two photographs of a sprinkler head. The one on the left is spraying with the three original nozzles while the right is using the new configuration.
In both photos the main nozzle points to the right and the backups are spraying left. The new nozzles, in the photo to the right, are achieving a better spread and distributing the water evenly over the entire area. At least it looks that way now. That is why I call it a dance. Many times a new problem develops that will have you dancing around with a new configuration. The test plot has been monitored for over 3 weeks, so I think we can skip the dance and move straight to the after party. If this simple fix improves the fairways the way I think it will, we will all have something to celebrate.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Rally for the Cure
Over 100 ladies took to the course to raise money for the Susan G. Komen Foundation and help in the fight against breast cancer. Participation was overwhelming in an event that is sure to become an annual tradition. The pink shirts, hats, ribbons and balloons that decorated the clubhouse and golf course were complimented by pink flags that were dyed by the maintenance department. Next year will include many other 'small details' that make a tournament a little more special. Congratulations to all of the golfers that took the time and effort to contribute to such a worthy cause. If you are interested in hosting an event of your own or donating to the foundation, more information can be found at: http://ww5.komen.org
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Home Lawns Part II: Five keys to a healthy lawn
Maintaining a home lawn can be relatively easy if the home owner consistently follows a few basic rules. I honestly put very little work into my lawn. After a full day at the golf course going home to mow is not that appealing. However, the lawn looks good because I consistently give it what it needs, no more, no less. I don't have to work too hard and I get a thick and full lawn with no weeds. Here are some checkpoints for your own lawn care. If you haven't been following the proceeding suggestions, implementing them will improve your lawn.
1. Always mow with a sharp blade
I cannot over emphasize the importance of a sharp blade when cutting turf
on a golf course. Your lawn will also appreciate a clean cut when you give it a trim. Dull blades will tear the end of the grass leaving a frayed tip. This poor cut is an avenue for disease and for water loss. The leaf can also turn light brown, diminishing the aesthetics of your lawn. If you have never sharpened a mower blade, consult the Internet to find many tutorials that will lead you step by step. It is not very difficult and a fresh cutting surface will save you water and effort in your lawn chores.
2. Maintain the proper height for your species of grass
First step for this tip is to find out what type of grass is growing in your yard. The previous 'home lawn' post referenced a website hosted by the University of California:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/ This is a good starting point to identify your species and its recommended growing height. Once you know the height that your lawn prefers,
all you need to do is put in the work to keep it near that height. A basic rule is not to cut any more than 1/3 of the leaf. So if you are mowing at 2.5 inches, it is possible to wait to mow until your grass is 3.75 inches. Some grasses will tolerate infrequent mowing quite well. My lawn is a tall fescue blend and I only mow every three weeks at most. My strategy is not to fertilize any more than I need to and avoid fertilizer when the plant does not need it. That brings us to our next tip.
3. Fertilize with proper amounts at the proper time
A pet peeve of mine is the annual 'spring green-up' commercials that entice homeowners to kick start their lawn. You are being advised to hammer your lawn with fertilizer at a time when all of that nitrogen will go to leaf growth. Get ready to mow twice a week, because that is what you just paid for. A better time to spend that money is in the fall when turf is programmed to carb load that energy in the roots. This will build a stronger plant that can survive the harsh conditions of winter and be ready to grow in spring. The stored energy will release as temperatures rise and spring green-up fertilizer is not really necessary. I was taught to put down 2/3 of my nitrogen in the fall when dealing with cool season grasses like perennial rye, bluegrass, and fescue. Bermuda is a different animal and fertilizer should be applied during the warmer growing months of summer.
4. Return those clippings to your yard
If you bag your clippings, you are removing free nutrients that need to be replaced by store-bought fertilizer. Clippings are over 80% water and do not contribute to thatch. By recycling the clippings into the yard you will reduce the labor and cost of maintaining your lawn. To avoid clumps, always try to mow when the grass is dry.
5. Water wisely
These tips are not in order of importance so do not take this one lightly. As a Superintendent in warm Stockton, CA, water is the most important input I apply to the course. As a homeowner, water is also important, especially considering it is a domestic water supply and we are currently in a drought. Every morning when I leave for work at 4:15 am, I see water streaming down my neighbors' sidewalks and down into the gutter. I've turned off a valve before, but I felt bad when their lawn turned brown after a week without water. On the bright side, I bet their water bill was a little lower than the month before.
Lawns do not need to be watered every single day. Every other day should work fine in the middle of summer and every third day when it cools down. Please turn off your water when it is raining. I am amazed at how many home lawns, municipalities, and commercial properties still have their irrigation running during a rain event.
Irrigation timing is also very important. Never water in mid-day heat. This can damage your lawn by transferring the heat of the sun to the root system. Water is a great conductor and you don't want to boil your grass. Additionally, much of the water will be lost to evaporation when you water during the day. The best time to water is just before sunrise when the plant is covered with dew and about to be dried off by the morning sun. This limits leaf wetness to a handful of hours in the morning and decreases your chances for disease.
Does it seem odd that a Golf Course Superintendent is telling you to conserve water. After all, aren't golf courses the biggest wasters of water in the world? Actually, that is a very common misperception. The truth is golf courses are the most efficient irrigators of all. Systems normally do not leak any more than 2-3% which is unheard of compared to agricultural settings and city plumbing. Check out this article from New York Times about Golf Course Superintendents teaching their states how to water wisely. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/06/science/earth/06golf.html?_r=2&hp
If you actually made it all the way through this gigantic post, I congratulate you for sticking with it and apologize for assigning homework at the end. As always, thanks for reading.
1. Always mow with a sharp blade
I cannot over emphasize the importance of a sharp blade when cutting turf
on a golf course. Your lawn will also appreciate a clean cut when you give it a trim. Dull blades will tear the end of the grass leaving a frayed tip. This poor cut is an avenue for disease and for water loss. The leaf can also turn light brown, diminishing the aesthetics of your lawn. If you have never sharpened a mower blade, consult the Internet to find many tutorials that will lead you step by step. It is not very difficult and a fresh cutting surface will save you water and effort in your lawn chores.2. Maintain the proper height for your species of grass
First step for this tip is to find out what type of grass is growing in your yard. The previous 'home lawn' post referenced a website hosted by the University of California:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/ This is a good starting point to identify your species and its recommended growing height. Once you know the height that your lawn prefers,
all you need to do is put in the work to keep it near that height. A basic rule is not to cut any more than 1/3 of the leaf. So if you are mowing at 2.5 inches, it is possible to wait to mow until your grass is 3.75 inches. Some grasses will tolerate infrequent mowing quite well. My lawn is a tall fescue blend and I only mow every three weeks at most. My strategy is not to fertilize any more than I need to and avoid fertilizer when the plant does not need it. That brings us to our next tip.3. Fertilize with proper amounts at the proper time
A pet peeve of mine is the annual 'spring green-up' commercials that entice homeowners to kick start their lawn. You are being advised to hammer your lawn with fertilizer at a time when all of that nitrogen will go to leaf growth. Get ready to mow twice a week, because that is what you just paid for. A better time to spend that money is in the fall when turf is programmed to carb load that energy in the roots. This will build a stronger plant that can survive the harsh conditions of winter and be ready to grow in spring. The stored energy will release as temperatures rise and spring green-up fertilizer is not really necessary. I was taught to put down 2/3 of my nitrogen in the fall when dealing with cool season grasses like perennial rye, bluegrass, and fescue. Bermuda is a different animal and fertilizer should be applied during the warmer growing months of summer.
4. Return those clippings to your yard
If you bag your clippings, you are removing free nutrients that need to be replaced by store-bought fertilizer. Clippings are over 80% water and do not contribute to thatch. By recycling the clippings into the yard you will reduce the labor and cost of maintaining your lawn. To avoid clumps, always try to mow when the grass is dry.
5. Water wisely
These tips are not in order of importance so do not take this one lightly. As a Superintendent in warm Stockton, CA, water is the most important input I apply to the course. As a homeowner, water is also important, especially considering it is a domestic water supply and we are currently in a drought. Every morning when I leave for work at 4:15 am, I see water streaming down my neighbors' sidewalks and down into the gutter. I've turned off a valve before, but I felt bad when their lawn turned brown after a week without water. On the bright side, I bet their water bill was a little lower than the month before.
Lawns do not need to be watered every single day. Every other day should work fine in the middle of summer and every third day when it cools down. Please turn off your water when it is raining. I am amazed at how many home lawns, municipalities, and commercial properties still have their irrigation running during a rain event.
Irrigation timing is also very important. Never water in mid-day heat. This can damage your lawn by transferring the heat of the sun to the root system. Water is a great conductor and you don't want to boil your grass. Additionally, much of the water will be lost to evaporation when you water during the day. The best time to water is just before sunrise when the plant is covered with dew and about to be dried off by the morning sun. This limits leaf wetness to a handful of hours in the morning and decreases your chances for disease.
Does it seem odd that a Golf Course Superintendent is telling you to conserve water. After all, aren't golf courses the biggest wasters of water in the world? Actually, that is a very common misperception. The truth is golf courses are the most efficient irrigators of all. Systems normally do not leak any more than 2-3% which is unheard of compared to agricultural settings and city plumbing. Check out this article from New York Times about Golf Course Superintendents teaching their states how to water wisely. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/06/science/earth/06golf.html?_r=2&hp
If you actually made it all the way through this gigantic post, I congratulate you for sticking with it and apologize for assigning homework at the end. As always, thanks for reading.
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